The Tailors’ Keep house style centers on a soft Neapolitan shoulder, a larger lapel, a lower button stance, and patch pockets, creating a jacket that feels casually elegant. Paired with a high-rise, pleated trouser, the overall effect blends tradition and modernity into something enduring rather than trend-driven.
Inspired by classic Neapolitan tailoring, with our own Northern Californian point of view, this approach allows more people to dress well in the relaxed context of San Francisco. The casual Neapolitan design elements are often paired with more formal British cloth—an intentional contrast. San Francisco’s climate is a perfect fit for those fabrics, while the softer details reflect the Bay Area’s ease. The result is tailoring that doesn’t feel fussy, and actually fits the way we live here. A suit or sport coat worn with a knit or polo can elevate a wardrobe while reserving the tie for more formal occasions.
The Tailors’ Keep house cut isn’t for everyone—and that’s kind of the point. It reflects our own point of view.
For a first suit at Tailors’ Keep, we typically suggest something in a dark navy, such as Fox Brothers Worsted Classics. It has become a go-to for us for good reason. The cloth carries a subtle texture that allows it to work not only as a full suit but also as separates. The weight gives the jacket clean lines and structure without feeling stiff, and the pure wool composition makes it easy to wear year-round in our climate. It’s formal enough for business and weddings, but relaxed enough to move into the weekend without feeling out of place.
We recommend a slightly larger lapel than you’d find off the rack—around four inches. Nothing extreme, just enough to give the body a bit more shape and visual interest. Patch pockets do make a suit feel slightly more casual, but for most Bay Area needs, that versatility works. Easier to wear to the office, a wedding, or wine country for the weekend.
This is paired with what some consider the slightly controversial high-rise trouser. While the high rise has made a comeback in menswear, we find it to be exceptionally comfortable and flattering on nearly all body types. Sitting closer to the natural waist—often near the belly button—it can take some getting used to at first. But the added room for movement tends to ruin other trousers for you. Death to overly skinny pants and stretchy fabrics. This is our flag in the ground.
But if you’re not quite ready for the high-rise moment, that’s no problem. Our mid-rise trouser still sits higher than most trousers people wear today and offers a more contemporary look that we fully endorse.
More practically, for clients with fuller midsections, a high rise is often far more flattering than a low- or mid-rise. Rather than allowing the stomach to spill over the waistband, the high rise creates a cleaner, more balanced line through the torso.
All of this is to say: we are a custom, semi-bespoke shop. Roughly 90 percent of your garment is made by hand, and throughout the process we collaborate with you to arrive at a design that suits your needs and proportions. Ultimately, the style and fabric are up to you. Our role is to offer expertise and guidance along the way.
Book a consultation in Palo Alto or San Francisco to get started.

