What followed became an unexpected experiment in summer tailoring and a reminder that there is more than one way to dress well when the temperature rises.

The trip began with a single glorious night at Villa San Michele, the Belmond property perched above Florence. My room opened onto a small garden overlooking the city below, a fitting introduction to the week ahead and the setting for the WM Brown Garden Party later that evening.

For the occasion, I wore a pair of Solbiati cotton-silk trousers cut with a fuller leg and Hollywood waistband, paired with an entirely unstructured pistachio Fox Sport double-breasted jacket. Underneath was a shirt made from Matt Hranek's Martini Stripe by Thomas Mason.

The combination felt a bit old Hollywood and perfectly suited to the evening. More importantly, it reminded me that ease is often more elegant than effort. The garden party was a  chance to reconnect with friends before the madness really started. Folks  around the industry and with people I often only see once a year in Italy.

The next morning arrived a little earlier than I would have preferred after a long travel day and a couple of negronis that had transitioned directly into work mode. Still, there are worse places to wake up than Villa San Michele.

After a few morning meetings, I made my way into Florence and through the gates of the Fortezza da Basso.

Walking into the Fortezza is always a strange experience. It's a bit like being paparazzi for “normal” people—or at least as normal as a gathering of menswear obsessives can be. Everyone is looking, photographing, greeting old friends, and trying to take in as much as possible before the next appointment.

The first familiar face I spotted was our friend Carlos, appropriately dressed in a Tailors' Keep DB coat cut from a William Bliss wool/linen blend. However, I was still avoiding linen.

The Fortezza itself remains an interesting experience. There is a great deal to see, though like any trade show there are plenty of misses alongside the occasional discovery. Many of the makers and mills we work with prefer to show outside the fairgrounds these days, making Florence itself feel like the real show.

Lunch that afternoon was with our friends from Casa Sartorial in Madrid. Ryan and I have always adored Christian and his team. Pitti can be intimidating until you find your footing, and they have consistently been among the warmest and most welcoming people we have met there. We continue to hope they'll visit us in San Francisco soon—and that we'll make it to Madrid before too long.

Our Locations

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Our San Francisco showrooms are nestled at the crux of an eclectic mixture of Jackson Square, the Financial District, North Beach, and Chinatown.

This showroom is appointment-only. 

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Palo Alto

Our newest showroom in Palo Alto opened in 2023, and is tucked away at 433 Hamilton Avenue.

This location is appointment-only.

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